The Incredible Rise of Lobster and Crab: From Poverty Food to Gourmet Luxury

Ever splurged on a buttery lobster roll or delicately cracked open a crab leg at a seaside resort, feeling luxurious and indulgent? You might be surprised to learn that not long ago, these seafood sensations were viewed as culinary bottom-feeders—quite literally. Once labeled as “poor man’s chicken” and served to prisoners and servants, lobster and crab have undergone one of the most dramatic image makeovers in food history.

Welcome to the fascinating tale of how two of today’s most coveted delicacies clawed their way up from the slums of cuisine to the heights of gourmet prestige.

Lobster: From Bait to Banquet

Colonial Rejection

In 17th-century New England, lobsters were so abundant they would wash up on shore in piles two feet high. Rather than being seen as a delicacy, they were viewed with disdain. Native Americans used them primarily as fertilizer and fish bait. European settlers took the hint—lobsters were considered cheap protein fit for the marginalized: prisoners, indentured servants, or livestock.

“They are the rats of the sea,” one early settler wrote, “fit only for the desperate.”

Industrial Revolution and Reinvention

The 19th century changed everything. With the rise of canning factories and the expansion of railroads, lobster meat became more accessible across the country. Canned lobster found its way into inland markets, and consumers unfamiliar with its earlier stigma began to view it as novel and exotic.

Upscale restaurants in cities like New York and Boston soon added rich dishes like lobster thermidor, lobster bisque, and butter-poached tails to their menus. By the early 20th century, lobster had officially rebranded—from sea pest to luxury plate. Presidents began serving lobster at White House dinners, and the crustacean earned its place as a status symbol on wedding buffets and holiday menus.

Crab: Chesapeake's Humble Hero

The Working-Class Staple

Along the Chesapeake Bay, blue crabs were once a dime a dozen—literally. They were the backbone of the local economy, but their meat was considered basic sustenance for watermen and laborers. Crab picking was grueling work, often left to women and children, and crab dishes were born out of frugality, not flair.

Canning and Culinary Fame

The turning point came with the rise of the crab canning industry in the early 20th century. This opened doors for crab meat to travel beyond the mid-Atlantic. Enter the Maryland crab cake: originally a cost-effective way to stretch leftover meat with breadcrumbs and seasoning, it soon became a beloved regional dish—and eventually, a high-demand appetizer in fine-dining circles.

As global cuisine evolved, crab took on new forms: Japanese kani rolls, Singapore chili crab, and Alaskan king crab legs, now sold at premium prices in high-end markets. A single king crab leg today can retail for $50 or more—a dramatic climb from its humble roots.

Why the Transformation?

• Scarcity Equals Status: Overfishing and environmental changes reduced wild populations, increasing market value.
• Marketing and Media Makeover: The Maine Lobster Promotion Council rebranded lobster as an upscale delicacy.
• Cultural Rebranding: Seaside tourism linked lobster and crab with luxury, leisure, and elite dining experiences.

Crustacean Class Climb: Not Alone

Lobster and crab are not the only foods to make such a leap. Their story echoes that of:

• Oysters – once sold on New York’s streets as cheap snacks, now $3–$5 apiece at oyster bars.
• Quinoa – a staple grain of poor Andean farmers, now labeled a global “superfood.”
• Escargot – garden snails, once peasant food, now served in fine dining with garlic butter.

These reversals are a reminder that food fashion is fickle, shaped as much by perception and promotion as by taste.

The Next Time You Dine…

So the next time you photograph a lobster tail for Instagram or savor a crab cake at a seaside bistro, remember: you’re tasting a Cinderella story centuries in the making. Once overlooked and unwanted, these crustaceans are now culinary royalty—thanks to a blend of scarcity, strategy, and a generous helping of societal irony.

Sources & Suggested Reading

1. Wallace, D. F. (2004). Consider the Lobster and Other Essays. Little, Brown and Company. Read More
2. Kurlansky, M. (2006). The Big Oyster: History on the Half Shell. Random House.
3. Smithsonian Magazine – How Lobster Got Fancy
4. Eater – The History of Crab Cakes
5. Maine Lobster Marketing Collaborative

💡 Pro Tips for Readers

• Try lobster in its many forms: bisque, roll, thermidor, or grilled.
• Explore crab dishes beyond cakes—like spicy crab ramen or crab curry.
• Look out for sustainable seafood options to support marine conservation.